litter box train dog

How To Litter Box Train Your Dog

By Teresa Heath

 

PAGE TWO

 

 

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 This is so awesome!!! I will be giving one of these to my new puppy owners to keep their puppy from being lonely.

 

It is a puppy with a heartbeat and a warmer, so that it takes the place of a puppy's litter mates and momma!!!

 No more lonely puppies! Works great for the crate or other times you are not there!

 

It is quite adorable and works so well, we have a very difficult time keeping them in stock!!!!!

 

 

Check it out at:  http://www.litterboxtrainyourdog.biz/Snugglepuppies.htm

 

 Chapter ONE -

The First Step to Litter Box Training!

AND AWAY WE GO...................

An affective potty training method consists of seven key elements:

 

1.      Setting Up a Feeding Schedule

2.      Confinement (Crate or alternative)

3.      Training of Proper Potty Placement

4.      Timing

5.      Praise

6.      Discipline for Wrong Behavior

7.      Odor Control

 

#1 - Setting up a feeding schedule:

 

 As mentioned before consistency is essential to training. Setting up a consistent feeding schedule from the start will help to regulate the dog's digestion process.

 

 Primarily, the type of dog food you give your dog will play a major part in the proper digestion and according to your dog's breed, size, age, etc.

 

I recommend a top brand along the lines of Iams, Eukanuba or Science Diet as they are the best when it comes to nutritional requirements of dogs.

 

 

 The hard puppy food results in a firmer bowel movement whereas the soft CAN food results in softer bowels therefore mushy messes to have to deal with.

 

Rather naturally the more a dog eats and drinks, the more often he will have to go potty.

 It is important that once you choose a food that you stick with it and do not change the dog's diet because you will wreak havoc on their digestive system.

 Changes in diet can quickly lead to diarrhea in your dog. 

Just for your information if you are interested in a dog food that is healthier for your dog......

 
 

 One night my husband made some extremely delicious meatballs and we thought there would be no harm in sharing a meatball with our Mishy.

 

In just a couple of hours after eating she began to act lethargic and breathing heavily.

 Boy I wish I would have had my copy of "Veterinary Secrets Revealed" then! I could have saved myself $60!

 

We decided that we needed to take her to the doctor and since it was later at night, the only option we had was to take her to the pet emergency clinic.

 The on duty vet that night looked Mishy over completely and found nothing wrong. Of course, we told him what she had eaten and he began to expound on the negative effects table food can have on a dog.

 

He actually told us that he was able to put his daughter through college because of the people who brought their dogs to see him who were sick from feeding their dog table food.

Wow, what a wake up call that was to me!

 

He also informed us of the hazards of giving your dog any kind of bones and he could not count the times he had to do surgery on dogs who had gotten bone splinters in their stomach from bones they had been given.

 He told us that the only table food he feeds his own dog is......pizza bones.....which means plain pizza crust.

 He also added that 75% of the stomach problems and surgeries he has done on dogs has been due to people feeding them table food.

 

Set up a feeding schedule that you can easily follow.

 

Allow your dog 15 to 20 minutes to eat, then pick up the food and water dish.

This will teach your dog to eat when it is time and not to play around.

 

It will also greatly assist housetraining because most dogs have a bowel movement up to an hour after eating.

The younger the dog the quicker the bowel movement and after meals is one of the primary times to train your dog to go potty in the proper place.

 DO NOT leave food out all the time, this will greatly distort your potty training. Your dog will going potty all day long.

 

Below is a suggested feeding schedule:

 

0- 6 months - feed 3X - Morning, noon and evening

6-12 months - feed 2X - Morning and early evening

1 year and over - feed 1X

 

Water is necessary for your dog but during the housetraining process you will want to restrict the water intake to only certain times on a schedule that you decide.

After housebreaking is complete your dog may have as much water as he wants.

 

Do the following until your dog is completely litter box trained:

·        Feed him only one kind of food,  preferably a hard puppy food.

·         Keep a regular feeding schedule

·         Put his food and water down only for 15-20 minutes then put it away

·        Do not give him treats or table food

If you happen to work out of the home you will need to set up a daily schedule that can be followed whether you are home all day or not. 

 

#2 - Confinement Issues

 

***Note - I have given you a vast amount of information that specifically deals with using a crate in case that is the route you want to use for housebreaking your dog to use a litter box.

 

But if you would rather not use a crate.....and would prefer a different type of confinement (like I do!!!) a lot of this information can be adapted to that.

 

 

****You will find my preferred method of confinement later on in your reading under the section title:

 

 "Passive Paper Training"

 

This is the ultimate in housebreaking techniques and my very MOST FAVORITE!!!   It takes the least amount of effort on your part and is so easy!

 

In fact, the passive paper training method is the method I used to housetrain 8 puppies at one time.

 

 

Either way, you must use some type of confinement while housetraining your puppy or dog or you will be in for a very difficult time of it.

 

Confinement Issues! Get A Crate or Use Another Acceptable Method of Confinement.

 

 

For this initial portion of the training I will discuss the use of the crate for training but as I mentioned all of these tips can be applied to any and all confinement choices available, such as a puppy playpen, ex-pen or small room.

 

 

 Before you begin the initial step of litter box training your dog you must get a crate or some other acceptable way to confine your dog when you are not able to watch him.

 

**It may be the very reason you have had difficulty in getting your dog housetrained is the very fact that you did not realize how crucial it is to have some kind of way to confine your dog when you are not able to watch him.

 Many people have been known to say that putting a dog in a crate or cage of any kind is cruel, but it is not.

 

It is a well used practice by many who have extensive experience with dogs, like groomers, veterinarians, breeders, professional trainers, and etc.

 

 It should be considered no different than the use of a playpen with a human baby.

  

If you decide that the crate is the way to go for you, I have included extensive information on how to get a dog  acclimated to a crate. (And again this can apply to any other confinement area.)

 

 

 Most dogs will have no problem right off the bat with the crate, and if that is the case with your dog, then you can bypass a lot of this  information.  

 

A. Using Some Type of Confinement and Why!

 

Get a crate or other type of confinement such as a dog playpen, ex-pen or use a baby gate to close off a small area or room!!

 

You may use a crate that is plastic, or metal. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores.

 

I actually use what is called a carrier or crate only for transporting my dogs.

 

It is plastic on all sides with a metal crate-like door with a handle on top for easy carrying.  

If you are getting a crate, then The crate must be large enough only so that the dog can stand up and turn around. 

 

As mentioned before, as a natural instinct, dogs will not usually dirty where they sleep, so that is why you want to keep their crate relatively small. 

 

Savings tip concerning purchasing a crate or ex-pen, or puppy playpen.

 

They can be a little expensive brand new at the store, so I suggest you check the Thrift stores in your area, specifically the Salvation Army.

 

 If your local humane society has a thrift store, like we do here in Jacksonville, Florida, you can pick them up for just a few dollars.

 

You might even find one at the end of someone's driveway waiting for the garbage man to pick up like I did one day.

 

I found a $119.00 crate (still had the price sticker on it) being thrown out on garbage day.

 Needless to say, I grabbed that little treasure and stuck it in my trunk and guess what? I sold it on Ebay for $45!

 

That was going to be my next suggestion for finding a crate... EBAY!!  I have seen several crates for sale on Ebay at great prices!

 

 Ex-pens or exercise pens or puppy playpens can run anywhere from $50 to $150 depending on the size.

This may seem like a lot of money, but it is an excellent investment for your dog and family. 

 

We have found it to be ideal for when we have a litter of puppies as they reach the ages of 5-6 weeks and are too big to stay in their whelping box. 

 

The primary purpose of using a crate or any type of confinement is to keep your puppy or dog safely confined when you are not able to watch him CONSTANTLY.

 

 

 This alone will save you countless hours of cleaning up carpet stains and exhaustion.

 

 

 If you are experiencing a lot of accidents then you are allowing your dog too much freedom way too soon!!! 

 

 

 Save your sanity and your carpet and keep your dog confined unless you are watching constantly!

 

 

It is just too difficult for any one person to watch a dog 24 hours a day. So, if you would like your housetraining process to go as quickly and simply as possible, I highly encourage you to use a crate, carrier or other means of confinement.

 

 

 You must never allow your dog to have free run of the house until he is completely litter box trained.  

 

 

Speaking of work, the best home remedy (and the cheapest of all) for neutralizing and cleaning soiled carpet is ½  vinegar & ½ water in a spray bottle.  Odor control is also a key component to the housetraining process.

 

 

If your dog had has an accident you must take careful precaution to clean the spot and neutralize the smell as quickly as possible, so he will not be tempted to use that location again.

 

Spray the area very well to soak, let it sit for a few seconds then take an old towel to soak it up.

 

It is amazing how vinegar can neutralize the scent of your doggy's messes. 

 

I keep one handy 24/7 while potty training.  

 

My other favorite product for odors is a product called Odo-ban which I find at Sam's Wholesale. It is wonderful!

 

And it leaves a very pleasant odor. It costs around $9.00 for a gallon and it is concentrated so it goes a long way.

 

 

 There is a also new product that I have been told about called, Baczyme.

 

It is supposed to be excellent, although I have not personally tried it. Winn-Dixie carries it, so that might be easier,  if you don't have a Sam's card. 

 

Another reason to clean the spot right away is so that it does not set in.

 

But don't despair! Soon you won't be having any more messes to clean up!

 

 

 As you endeavor to follow the directions closely here in this guide, you will ultimately have litter box training success!

 

And REMEMBER...once your dog is trained you will no longer have to confine him at all.....unless you want to!

 

Back to subject of confinement........

 

There are several other beneficial purposes for using a crate or other confinement area besides just for housetraining purposes.

 

·         It provides your dog protection from excited toddlers.

·         It is similar to the child's playpen when you are not home.

·         Puppy will not be able to chew the furniture or wet the carpet while you are gone.

 

It is also a good place that becomes like a sanctuary for your dog when he needs a place to go when he is too excited and gets into trouble.

 

 It is similar to sending a child to their room for time out. 

 

 

I want to be able to help you and encourage you so that you have complete success like countless others have enjoyed. I have also provided  you access to a surplus of other resources concerning any kind of puppy or dog problem you might encounter.

 

Several wonderful websites are listed for you at the end of this e book.

 

 I want to make this as pleasurable experience as possible. So that when you are finished, you will be a "litter box training" machine! You will be able to help others!

 

 

 

 

 

Questions? Email me: doglitterbox@yahoo.com

 

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